Thursday, May 1, 2014

Fantastic Fuji-san -- Part 1

   I don't have to to tell you what this is, do I?   One thing I do want to mention for any foreign readers is that "Fuji-san" doesn't mean "Mr. Fuji," as I used to think before I got here a few decades ago.  That "san" is not a title of respect, but rather the Japanese word for "mountain."  So, if you call it "Fuji-san," the Japanese way, you're not saying "Mr. Fuji,"  but rather "Mt. Fuji" or, more accurately, "Fuji Mountain."

     Whatever you call it, this mountain is  one of the most iconic images of Japan, certainly one of the most important places in Japanese history, culture and, of course, Japanese hearts. In that sense, it's right up there with cherry blossoms, and if you've ever seen it sort of hovering like a dream  in the distance, you'd feel its mystery yourself, believe me!

          Geographically speaking, Mt. Fuji is a "stratovolcano" -- a tall, conically-shaped volcano formed from many layers ("strata") of lava, ash and other scientific stuff, all of which piled up to make Fuji-san Japan's highest mountain. Just FYI, its footprint is oval-shaped and it is located precisely where three tectonic plates meet, making it highly likely to erupt sometime soon.  It's been dormant for 300 years now, and it's long overdue, they say.  In fact  one Japanese researcher has written  a book about how it's due to erupt in 2015!   

      Whether he's right or wrong, the Japanese in charge of such things are certainly taking their emergency and evacuation plans very seriously these days.  It would be ironic indeed, if, after it was finally declared a UNESCO site as it was in June of 2013, Fuji-san blew its top and disappeared or caused untold numbers of people to lose their lives and/or property. The last time it erupted, back in 1707, volcanic ash fell on Tokyo.  Do you know what volcanic ash does to things like train lines?  Well, that's a story for another day . . . . . .



  •        It's not the size or height of Fuji-san that makes it so special -- it's the unusual shape and the fact that it's so, well, solitary.  If it were tucked into one of Japan's many mountain ranges, instead of floating in isolated splendor like a mirage, it surely wouldn't have gotten the recognition and attention it has enjoyed since the 8th century.  
  •          For the Japanese, Mt. Fuji, like cherry blossoms, has s cultural significance far beyond what they actually are.  Here, cherry blossoms are more than just flowers, and Fuji-san is more than just a mountain.  For one thing, it has a long religious history. It's one of Japan's "Three Holy Mountains," and it's been regarded as a sacred place since people started living around it.  Followers of Shinto, Japan's native religion, believe it's the holy abode of the goddess Sengen-sama, and there's a shrine at the summit dedicated to her.  Some of the summer hikers to the top are actually religious pilgrims and for them, climbing Mt. Fuji is an important religious ritual.  The many tourists, on the other hand, might consider it to be a very challenging and arduous hike.   


  •     Fuji-san is important for Buddhists, too.  In fact, it's named for their goddess of fire, called Fuchi.  They consider it to be the gateway to another world.  And even for tourists, in a sense that's true.  After you've clawed your way up to the summit, battling crowds, extreme thirst, incredible fatigue and -- worst of all -- altitude sickness, you might have a religious experience despite your original intention.  You'll certainly have a better opinion of yourself and enjoy a sense of pride that stays with you a long time.
  •     Whatever your reason for ascending Mt. Fuji, you really ought to do it if you visit Japan and are fit enough for a serious hike that requires planning and provisions. (It takes 8 hours and can only be done during the months of July & August, the official climbing season.)  After all, there's wisdom in proverbs, and a famous Japanese one goes like this:

     "He who climbs Mount Fuji once is a wise man, he who climbs twice is a fool."


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